Restaurant Review John Mueller’s BBQ by Erin Smith

If asked, most Austinites will boisterously expound on the strengths of their favorite barbeque joint, even to the point of conflict. And as good Texans always defend their honor, Austin men and women have taken up arms on behalf of their favorites, arguing that so-and-so’s brisket could never beat this-and-that’s sausage, or that a particular potato salad met its apogee at (insert favorite restaurant here). After one trip to John Mueller’s BBQ, however, these conversations tend to become moot.

Located on Manor Road, a couple of blocks east of IH 35 and smack in the middle of the east side’s restaurant strand, John Mueller’s is a decidedly non-descript cinder-block building emblazoned with a massive Texas flag. A favorite of the political- and downtown-set for almost three years, Mueller’s opens early, serving up brisket and sausage wraps in homemade tortillas (however, when they’re gone, they’re gone, so get there early if breakfast tacos appeal to your tastebuds). It closes early, too (the doors regularly lock around 7 p.m. to accommodate the daily preparation of cuisine for the next day’s lunch crowd). While John Mueller’s is a relatively recent addition to Austin’s barbeque scene, John, the owner, learned the trade from his father, who owns and operates the famous Louis Mueller’s BBQ in Taylor, Texas.

Given the range of perfectly prepared meats to choose from, the Atkins- and South Beach-inclined have started to set up residence at the restaurant and carb-conscious regulars flow through Mueller’s aged screened doors every week. Using only salt and pepper to season and dedicating many an early morning to tending the barbeque pit, John is consistently on-site producing some of the best protein offerings in town. From lean, moist pork loin and turkey to juicier ribs and sausage, Mueller’s can accommodate almost any diet. Even vegetarians can find solace at Mueller’s, as all of the sides — pinto beans, cole slaw, potato salad, baked squash and green bean casserole (all of which are as spectacular as the main courses) — are completely meat-free.

In the word’s of one young woman who recently took a first taste of Mueller’s BBQ, “I’ve never had brisket before and 29 years was far too long to go without!” Even her 11-month-old daughter happily munched on some bite-sized brisket with a satisfied grin on her face. So if you haven’t yet been to John Mueller’s BBQ , be sure to make the trip — even the most discriminating of barbeque connoisseurs will leave impressed.

John Mueller’s BBQ is located at 1917 Manor Rd. The hours are 8 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturday and closed Sunday.