Restaurant Review Marie Callender’s by Erin Smith

 

Roasted Turkey with Tomato Basil

Now, whenever I hear someone say Marie Callender’s, I usually think of fabulously unhealthy muffins, cookies, scones and the like, or better yet, a chicken pot pie that would beat my grandmother’s. While these are mouth-watering images for some, dieters and health-conscious eaters may consider them less than appealing, or downright ruinous for their South Beach or Zone sensibilities. Marie Callender’s, however, has recently expanded its menu to help people cinch their waistlines.

A number of chains and large food corporations have ramped up efforts to capture the new market of low-carb eaters, with Coca-Cola releasing the new half-carb, half-calorie, C2, and many sandwich shops offering low-carb wraps in lieu of the beloved hoagie bun. Even the new menu at Marie Callender’s, though long a bastion of unapologetic big-belly home-cookin, epitomizes this trend and illustrates how fully the restaurant industry has taken notice of the nation’s revised culinary priorities.

The California-based chain, whose local outcropping is situated at the Gateway Market on Highway 183 and Great Hills Trail, has just introduced a menu designed specifically for the carb-conscious. With nine specialized offerings ranging from Fresh Grilled Salmon to Seared Sirloin Steak and Grilled Chicken, all served with fresh steamed broccoli and tomato-basil vinaigrette, the menu affords more Atkins-friendly choices than most other establishments, which usually put forth only one or two. For lunch we sampled the Lemon Chicken, accompanied by perfectly steamed, green broccoli florettes. The chicken was remarkably tender, with none of the toughness or dryness that too often plagues “restaurant-served poultry” (or “tricky fowl”).

Because of its location, Marie Callender’s mainly caters to a family crowd at dinner, but draws from the many offices nearby for lunch. This creates a farely wide-ranging clientele, from ladies’ lunchers to business brokers. Their menu reflects this diversity and the volume they bring in enables them to successfully support a range of options.

While not specifically on the “As You Like It” menu (low-fat and low-carb), a number of offerings caught our attention as being well-balanced. The summer menu boasts a Turkey Avocado Ciabatta as well as a Mediterranean Medley Salad — both great options for the health-conscious, who have not yet jumped onto the anti-bread craze. A Caesar Salad/French Onion Soup combination proved slightly disappointing. However, on the richer side of the equation, the Chicken Picatta Florentine, a lovely medley of mushrooms, spinach, tomatoes, garlic and sautéed chicken breast served over pasta, received rave reviews from our staff’s resident runner and cross-trainer.

Although Marie Callender’s does not boast the local flavor that Austinites tend to pride themselves on, it does cater to Austin’s health sensibilities in an amiable, easily accessible setting with a warm and friendly staff. Don’t pause too long in the lobby on the way out though — the plate-sized chocolate chip cookies have a nasty way of jumping in your to-go bag.

Locations: North: 9503 Research Blvd, near Great Hills Trail; 349-7151. South: 5601 Brodie Lane; 899-1000.